Beauty

All over the internet, you’ll see splashy articles that tell tales on how to get amazing hair. This normally includes some sort of in-depth routine and picking up products at your local Sephora, but do these things actually work for normal, everyday women? And what is the secret to getting that gorgeous “shampoo model” hair anyway? We decided to turn to an expert to get the details.Younghee Kim has been a hairstylist for 30 years. Working under the likes of Vidal Sassoon, she now owns a salon in New York City, Younghee Salon. When asked about the secrets of perfecting a hair routine in order to get healthy hair, she said it all comes down to one thing: your scalp.

The Most Common Mistake
Kim said that in order to figure out your hair type, you should turn to your skin. “Look at your skin, if your skin is dry, your hair is dry,” Kim explained. “So, it’s important to know your skin type.” 
Your hair type and scalp type work in conjunction. While it might be necessary to determine the type of hair you have—such as fine, thick, curly, or color-treated—it’s also necessary to define what type of scalp you have, which many people look over.
Most hair products only look after the ends and middle shaft of the hair, instead of looking at the root of the problem—pun intended. When you look at hair products, they rarely treat for scalp type. Often, they advertise for hair type, such as a shampoo for curly hair and conditioners for only taming split ends. While acknowledging scalp type is not a new practice in the hair-care industry, it’s certainly not as common. “The industry has been talking about ‘scalp care as skin care,’ but education for consumers and available products are a bit behind,” Kim said. This is a challenge for Kim and other hairstylists alike, as it’s often difficult to educate their clients on the importance of taking care of the scalp. 

Knowing Your Scalp Type
Even though the scalp is often overlooked, it’s easy to address. You can determine your scalp type at home. Simply look at your scalp as you would look at the skin on your face. Just like your facial skin, scalps come in several forms: oily, dry, combination, or sensitive; your scalp type, coupled with your hair type, can then determine your hair-care routine.
You might think that you need to use toners, masks, and a hair essence, but that isn’t always necessary. The most important part of achieving healthy hair is listening to your body. Kim emphasized the process of trying out different products, observing their effects, and then sticking to whatever works best. There is no one method or a specific product you should use when crafting your hair routine.
Just as you would stop using a product that irritated your face, watch your scalp and stop using products that don’t suit your hair. “Every shampoo has a personality, you have a personality, and you need to have the right fit. It’s like matchmaking,” Kim explained. 

 
What to use in your hair-care routine
So, what products should you use? With international markets bursting at the seams with new products left and right, it can be overwhelming to even choose a product to test. A constant “no-no” for Kim is silicone. “Silicone is the worst for hair,” Kim said. She explained further that  “the silicone found in shampoos and conditioners is intended to stay on the hair after washing, and as a result it doesn’t leave the hair and scalp easily. Over time, the silicone will weigh down your hair, making it limp, dry, and dull. Additionally, the hair follicles on your scalp can become clogged and lead to breakouts and scalp sensitivity.” 
Kim also explained that she tries to stay away from organic products, as she’s found through her experience that they can make her customers’ hair flat. There’s also no way to know exactly what percent of the product is actually organic, but an easy way to find certified organic product is doing some quick research online and to read reviews from other experts and users. 

READ: The Celeb-Favorite Haircare Product That Gave Me My Best Hair Days

While the products included in Kim’s own line are 100 percent natural, they are not organic. The main difference between Kim’s products and others is that because they are natural, they do not contain silicone. According to Kim, “silicone is a synthetic ingredient that makes hair smooth and shiny. There are products on the market that claim to detox or clarify, but they contain silicone, which is the main culprit in residue build-up.”
While natural products are not certified and have fewer rules compared to the intensive certification process of organic goods, they both do not contain parabens. In order to see whether natural products are truly worthwhile, it’s best to study the ingredients on the label. Products that have the least synthetic ingredients should be your go-to products if you’re looking for things that are cleaner and more natural. If you’re not sure if a product is good for you, ask your stylist their opinion.

Kim noted that while she believes natural ingredients are important, getting a shampoo that balances the pH of your scalp is also a factor. A shampoo with a pH of 6.5 is a great place to start. Some companies will list the pH on the company website, or at times companies may list the pH in training manuals and product brochures for the stylist. But unfortunately, it is not always common knowledge for the consumer. Because of this, it’s important to choose your hair products carefully and talk to your hair stylist for recommendations.

READ: Can You Train Your Hair to Be Less Greasy? We Asked An Expert

She also recommended using a toner. Just as all soaps do, “shampoos leave residue behind,” Kim said. She further explained that you need to tone your hair with a comb to get the residue out. While there aren’t many purifying hair and scalp toners on the market, Kim suggests trying diluted apple cider vinegar or diluted witch hazel. The scent may be strong, but it will fade as the hair dries. Alternatively, Kim also suggested using a clarifying shampoo to get rid of any silicone residue build-up, but she recommends that “you use it once in a while, as it is like using dish detergent and can dry out your hair and scalp if used too frequently.”
After a toner, Kim said that she normally goes in with a small amount of conditioner at the ends, and in her experience, she’s noticed that “if you have a good product, you won’t need a lot of it.”

There is no one-size-fits-all routine
In a world where there’s a lot of restrictions, Kim sees the world of hair a little differently. When asked about if there are additional products people should use or if there’s a certain way to treat hair, Kim noted that “nothing is bad. If you overdo it, it’s bad…[But] nothing is set in stone.” 
Kim’s point of view brings to light the thought process behind hair care and what it really means to have a “hair routine.” After all, just like skin, everyone has different hair, and while some people might work better with a certain routine, others might not. Kim made an analogy that just like how “some people can sleep with their makeup on and their skin looks [fine]. For others, they need to cleanse and moisturize, otherwise, they will break out and/or have dry skin.” 
What matters is that you watch and react to your personal hair needs and adjust accordingly. While Kim has a lot of recommendations on the best way to treat hair, at the end of the day she does really suggest one thing: “Have fun. Enjoy it!” More

The first time I heard what Black girls couldn’t do beauty-wise was when I showed interest in red lipstick. I can’t remember my age, but I do remember what was said, “Your lips are too big, and your skin is too dark to wear red lipstick.” As far as I was concerned, this person was right. As one of the brownest girls in my cul-de-sac, I often heard what I couldn’t do and how pretty I wasn’t. I remember wanting to spend less time outside because I was afraid to get darker, even though my parents (who are both lighter skin) would pour into reminding me that I was beautiful. My mom always affectionately called me her “chocolate child,” and still does on occasion. There are a lot of things that people say about what Black women, especially those of us with darker skin tones, can and can’t do. The irony is that white women appropriate our hair, our features, and our bodies, and somehow our beauty is still questioned. Black beauty, due to its ongoing scrutiny from outside communities, has somehow always been political and controversial. So much so that policies like The CROWN Act, a law that protects Black people from discrimination based on hairstyle and hair texture, is necessary. 
I have been affected by the myths surrounding my Blackness, and I’m here to debunk the Black beauty myths (and misconceptions) still running wild, since I no longer subscribe to them. I want to remind my melanated beauties that they can do whatever they want, whenever they want, without apology. 

Myth #1: Black skin doesn’t need sunscreen
Listen, I once believed this fable, until I got a nasty sunburn. Here’s the thing: yes, our melanin gives us the ability to bask in the sun without getting burned (in some cases). However, protecting your body’s largest organ from UV rays is important because we, Black people, can get skin cancer. We are less likely to get that form of cancer, but we are more likely to die from it when we do. Let that sink in. I used to be that girl: in the sun, getting a tan without a drop of sunscreen on. Not anymore. There are sunscreens made with deeper skin tones in mind. For my face, I often wear sunscreen in my tinted moisturizer (currently using ILIA Beauty’s Super Serum Skin Tint with SPF 40). On no-makeup days, I use Supergoop’s Unseen Sunscreen on my face because it protects, primes, and doesn’t leave an ugly white cast, and I use Shiseido’s Clear Stick on my neck, shoulders, and arms on days when I work outside or go for a hike. 

Myth #2: Black girls can’t wear red (or bright) lipstick
When I was a little girl, I would watch my mom pop on her signature bright orange lipstick color every day. I’d sneak into her makeup and try it on, even though I always thought that bright colors weren’t for me. One day when I was at the MAC counter, I told the artist about my reservations, and he instantly cut me off. He showed me how to properly line my lips with their cherry liner and applied Ruby Woo to my full lips. Next thing I knew, I was a girl that wore red lipstick everywhere with or without makeup. He didn’t stop there. The artist showed me how to layer my cherry liner with Lady Danger, a bright orange-red matte color. Lady Danger is now my orange signature shade. It’s not quite the same orange color as my mom’s, but it’s my ideal match.

Myth #3: There is only one version of nude
I remember the days when nude meant pale, chalky pinks. I tried to make those colors work by layering them with gloss. Talk about a beauty no-no. Nudes have come a long way for Black women, not just in the world of beauty, but in the world of fashion as well. We can thank Black founders for that shift. Who better to make nudes that work for our range of skin tones than Black women? Mented Cosmetics, The Lip Bar, Nubian Skin, and Kahmune are changing the face of nudes for Black women everywhere. For me, finding your nude is like finding a bra that fits perfectly. You’ll wear it every day and feel supported and beautiful. My favorite nude lipstick at the moment is Mented #5. I like to wear it on its own, but if I want a little gloss, I layer it with Fenty Beauty’s Gloss Bomb in Hot Chocolit. When I want a more pink-based nude, MAC’s Crème In Your Coffee is the one! I have used that color for years and always have it on deck. 

Myth #4: Black girls can’t wear neon
When the neon eyeliner and shadow trend took off, I thought, “There’s no way, I can pull that off.” That all changed when Instagram explore introduced me to Danessa Myricks’ work. She showcases bright makeup looks on a range of skin tones, and her artistry inspired me to give neon colors a try. I purchased her blue waterproof liner, thinking that it would be my color, since the pink color I bought as a wild card made me retreat into the false narrative that I couldn’t wear a color as bright as neon pink. Once I tried the hot pink liner, it became my go-to makeup look for events, auditions, and when I wanted to match my makeup to my clothes (so ’90s, I know). Finding the right color to make your skin pop can take some trial and error and a little courage. But once you take a chance, you won’t regret it. Follow makeup artists like Danessa Myricks, Pat McGrath, and Sir John for inspiration. Through their works, they show us that Black women don’t even have to shy away from amplifying our features with brightly-hued products because the world told us not to shine. 

Myth #5: Skip the bronzer because it’ll look chalky
Like nude lipsticks and undergarments, I remember when bronzers only worked on light, white skin tones. No matter what brand of bronzer you picked up, you were guaranteed to look like you’d played in your middle school teacher’s chalk. The first bronzer I purchased after those fails was from supermodel Iman’s makeup line. At the time, I was using her foundation, and the bronzer was a natural complement to my skin. Contouring for an everyday look wasn’t a thing at the time, but I did use it to dust a subtle shimmer on my cheeks and just under my brow bone. Many brands make bronzer with darker skin tones in mind like Fenty Beauty Sun Stalk’r Instant Warmth Bronzer and Gressa’s Minimalist Contouring Serum Bronzer, which are two of my everyday favorites. 

Myth #6: Black women don’t spray tan
Spray tans are one of my favorite pre-vacation beauty dos. The first time I got a spray tan with the golden sol tanning solution, I didn’t know what to expect. I was headed on a baecation for my birthday and wanted to look my best. As my tan set, I was blown away by the results. My brown skin looked more even, and I didn’t have to spend any time in the sun. My skin glistened like Kelly Rowland’s, and that was all I needed. My recommendation if you’re curious about spray tans is to reach out to a local studio you trust. For example, I got my spray tan at Sweet Peach Wax & Sugaring Studio in Atlanta, where I got my waxing services. Since I trusted them with that service, when I was curious about bronzing for dark skin, they answered all of my questions. I haven’t tried self-tanning at home, but for any beauty-specific questions, I go straight to Jackie Aina’s YouTube channel. She had a great experience with the 24-hour self-tanner from Vita Liberata’s Body Blur, so when I need an instant glow, I’ll start there.   

 
Beauty myths, standards, and general misconceptions should be turned on their heads and thrown in the boundaries garbage bin. Black women are multifaceted, and we deserve to explore the beauty and anything else we desire without being told what makes us desirable or of value.  More

As much as I love a celebrity’s style, emulating it with their exact pieces isn’t exactly in my price range. Like I absolutely adore you Zendaya, but I’d have to acquire quite a bit of cash to afford anything in your closet. Finding similar pieces is fun, but there’s nothing quite like trying something knowing […] More