lifestyle and culture

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As the sister to Zuma, this Business Bay hotspot Roka has taken the challenge of being the new contender head-on and has become an instant hit amongst the Dubai restaurant crowd.
Situated in The Opus, a building designed by Zaha Hadid, Roka has brought its unique style of contemporary Japanese Robatayaki cuisine to Dubai and it’s an absolute must-try. Like its elder sibling Zuma, Roka’s flagship restaurant is located in London, but it’s undoubtedly already carved its place in the F&B space in the emirate under the leadership of executive head chef Libor Dobis.

Emirates Woman sat down with the critically-acclaimed chef to find out what it has been like opening a restaurant in the middle of a pandemic, how he believes the Dubai restaurant scene sets itself apart from other places, Roka’s hero dishes and the future of the establishment in Dubai.
Can you talk us through your career history?
My career really kick-started in London in 2004 when I started working at I Sapori by Stefano Cavallini, an Italian restaurant. My passion for food always stemmed from South-East Asian flavours and cooking techniques so I developed to work for the likes of Nobu, Nahm, a famed Thai restaurant at the time, and Naamyaa by Alan Yau. Finally, I landed at ROKA and worked both in the Mayfair and Canary Wharf locations where I worked my way up to Head Chef before moving to Dubai.
What eventually brought you to Dubai?

From a career perspective, I was ready for the next step and a new opportunity but there was no way I was leaving the ROKA family so when the project in Dubai presented itself, I jumped at it. From a family perspective, we were also looking for a new adventure and Dubai seemed like the ideal place at this stage in our life.
How does the food and beverage industry here differ from other places around the world?
Dubai is a new and different world. It is relatively young from an industry perspective with lots of new restaurant opening all the time, it’s booming! There are obviously cultural diversities in every country, which need to be adapted to whether this is from a customer or business perspective.
ROKA opened just before the pandemic and then closed. What was that like for you as a chef?
It was tough, I won’t lie, having just arrived in the country and then virtually going straight into lockdown. However, you must take the positive experiences out of difficult situations, I learnt a lot during this time.

How was ROKA affected during lockdown? How did you adapt?
I believe all restaurants were affected similarly. We started takeaway relatively quickly and when we were able to reopen, we adapted the restaurant swiftly in-line with the government’s regulations. During the time we were closed we took advantage of it and used it to plan and strategise new menus etc.
ROKA really has found its own niche in the Business Bay area. Would you agree?
I definitely agree, YES! We are fortunate to have a fantastic location; the terrace views are to die for. To top it off we are in a building which I believe is becoming an icon of the Dubai skyline – really it could not be better.
What are the hero dishes at ROKA?
We have a large amount of ROKA signature dishes from London on our menu that have been firm favourites here as well. The likes of the Kampachi Salad, Lamb Cutlets and Mushroom Hotpot. In addition, there are dishes that are unique to the Dubai menu which I would consider are hero dishes now, such as the Bone Marrow & the Baked Potato.
What do you think sets ROKA apart from other eateries in Dubai?
ROKA has heart, warmth and energy, which is a unique feeling I believe, it hits you when you walk through the doors. It is driven by the passion to deliver consistently high levels of food, service, drinks; every element. The ROKA culture is a “thing” that exists throughout all the locations and I am yet to see this replicated elsewhere.
Who would you say your chef inspiration is?
Honestly, it is difficult to say as there are so many great chefs, and I have had many mentors but if I had to choose I would name David Thompson, who I worked for at Nahm, and the ROKA Group Executive Chef Hamish Brown, he has a unique passion and incredible pallet.
What are the hurdles you’ve experienced during your career as a chef?
I would say the lockdown was probably the most stressful time, the business is forced to close, and you have no idea what the next day will bring…

On the opposite end of the spectrum, what are the milestones?
Moving to Dubai was a milestone for sure. It started a new chapter in my life personally and professionally and has opened many doors that I never thought of when I was back in London.
What future do you see for ROKA in this region?
I see ROKA having a very bright future internationally and within the region but ultimately the expansion is not within my control so I would simply say, watch this space!
December’s – ‘The Party Issue’ – Download Now
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With both Indochine and Miss Lily’s being the ultimate celebrity hangout spots in New York City, Dubai has been lucky enough to add the venues to its roster of fabulous eateries in the emirate.
Adding to Dubai’s burgeoning scene, VKD Hospitality Founders Khalil Dahmash and Varun Khemaney have managed to make both the restaurants popular places to dine in here in the city.

Emirates Woman sat down with the dynamic duo to find out what it was like to bring two famed NYC celebrity hotspots to Dubai, how they dealt with the pandemic and what they think of Dubai.
What made you want to bring two iconic New York hotspots to Dubai?
Both brands are very special in their own right. We fell in love with the décor, food and how unique their overall offering was. We don’t like to go after big franchises as we like to add our own creative touch while taking into account what the local market wants, when translating the brands from overseas – as this can be seen with both Indochine and Miss Lily’s. Another reason of what attracted us to bringing both brands here was that both Jamaican and Vietnamese cuisines were underrepresented in the Dubai culinary scene. They both filled a niche that was missing in the market.

How did you begin your careers in the food and beverage industry?
A large portion of Varun’s family business was in F&B – so he picked up the hospitality bug from a young age. He also partnered up with Iron Chef Morimoto and opened up a restaurant called Tribeca Canvas in NYC not too long ago. Khalil on the other hand came from a finance background – he worked a lot on mergers and acquisitions in the Middle East specifically in the F&B sector. He gained his operational experience by building and operating Miss Lily’s and Indochine, which allowed us to form the VKD hospitality group in 2016.
Miss Lily’s arrived in Dubai first – what was it like bringing this hotspot over to Dubai? Were you worried it may not mesh in with other establishments?
That’s exactly why we brought it over – we really didn’t want it to mesh with other establishments in the city. It was unique and that is the main reason why it did so well. Everyone in the city wants to go big, while we wanted to go small.
The process of bringing the brand over from NYC was difficult and it took a lot of time and effort to convince the partners that we were the right operators for the brand. Funny enough, there were several other big Dubai F&B operators going after the brand at the same time. However, after months of back and forth they chose us as they felt that we truly understood how to translate the brand over to Dubai without losing the true essence of what makes Miss Lily’s so special.

Varun Khemaney and Khalil Dahmash
Then last year you brought over the iconic Indochine. Has it been as popular as you’d hoped here in Dubai?
Yes, it certainly has, the reception has definitely been very positive. It is gratifying to see a space come to life and manifest from the original idea we had in the first place. Indochine received the best fine dining newcomer in the 2020 timeout awards – it was great to get such validity from our industry peers.
Can you talk us through the appeal of Dubai?
It’s the biggest cosmopolitan city in the Middle East. The population has a large number of expats and a very well-educated local class who are always looking for something new. High spending power. The city also attracts a large number of tourists every year – it is an entertainment hub. Plus, setting up businesses in the UAE is pretty easy and straight forward.
How long was the idea in the works to bring Indochine to Dubai?
It took roughly about two years to translate Indochine DXB from an idea to reality.
Of course, it only arrived in Dubai at the end of 2019 then we had lockdown in March – crazy times! How did the pandemic and lockdown affect Indochine?
Really crazy times! It’s unfortunate that the pandemic came just a couple months after Indochine opened. The restaurant was just getting into its stride and reaching its momentum. We opened our doors starting with Gucci’s annual party and from there we got continuous coverage from the best publications and key industry leaders in the city. Once the pandemic hit, we had to close down our doors and we, unfortunately, lost the momentum that we have built up. We had to basically start again from scratch once we opened back up – but we are thankful for the reception we have received; all of our regulars came back to support us. We are happy to be back on track now.
How did you adapt during this time? Other restaurants like LPM turned to delivery, which meant they could keep all of their staff employed. Is this something Indochine did?
At VKD we always preach family – that being said, our main goal was to retain all of our staff and to not lay anyone off. In order to do that, we had to be nibble and see how we can adjust our business model to keep afloat. With the restaurants being closed, we shifted our entire offering onto an online delivery platform (Deliveroo). In order to increase our reach, we also found a satellite kitchen located in the marina area. We launched both of our concepts from there – by doing that we managed to expand our delivery radius so that we can reach the majority of the densely populated residential areas in Dubai. This helped bring in a substantial amount of revenue during the lockdown – it also allowed our kitchen staff to continuously work during this time.

The food and beverage industry, especially when opening a restaurant, can be a difficult one to break into as it’s so competitive. What’s your advice to budding entrepreneurs in this industry?
It is definitely one of the most competitive industries out there. Stick to your core competencies, understand your clientele and making sure that you always deliver a consistent product and experience.
What are your thoughts on how the pandemic has affected the F&B Industry in Dubai and the UAE as a whole?
No one in our lifetime has really dealt with a pandemic – this is something that is really new to everyone. Everyone is trying to figure it out. The lockdown forced curfews, capacity limitations will definitely have a ripple effect in the F&B sector – a lot of restaurants and bars have already closed, and we expect to see more of that as the time passes. Only the strong will survive. Coming out of lockdown, we do feel that the UAE has dealt very well with the pandemic when comparing to other cities around the world, they have managed to keep numbers low which meant that operators like us were still allowed to open up and run their businesses – to survive really (even though it is limited). When you look at cities like London and NYC, they are in a much worse state than we are – it’s affecting the F&B industry there much more.
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Cartier, known for its unique collections of fine jewellery and watches explores everyday life, by bringing back old traditions with a refined edge. To mark the festive season, Cartier brings life to its covetable range of objects which is carefully curated for one and all.
From luxe keyrings to premium pocket watches, the Maison’s codes have been imbued in the finishing of each product it creates. Whether you wish to say thank you or simply mark a special occasion, these keepsake gifts are sure to make everyday extraordinary while featuring the house’s well-known motifs.

These pieces which become future family heirlooms are gifts to treasure for years to come as they are received in red boxes with joy as a gift, or when treating oneself. It’s an age-old tradition of taking an interest in everyday objects since 1880 continues till today even after having its own dedicated exhibition at Cartier New York.
The hero buys for the festive season
Trinket tray

From Entrelacés de Cartier
Snow Globe

From Diabolo de Cartier
Fragrance case

From Diabolo de Cartier
Solitaire game

From the Panthère de Cartier collection
To discover more visit cartier.com 
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December’s – ‘The Party Issue’ – Download Now
The Gift Guide – Download Now 
Fiona Leahy is a master at curating the perfect setting for dining in style. Having created incredible tablescapes for almost everyone in the luxury industry, Leahy has also conjured otherworldly designs for Middle-Eastern and rock royalty.
What do your first 30 mins of the day look like, your morning routine?
I get up and bring the dogs into the garden then I make a celery juice. I have a celery juice every morning on weekdays, it’s my insurance policy for a good day.
You started in an unusual way, tell us about the beginning of your career?

Well, I started as a fashion stylist, then went into jewellery and became Assistant Creative Director for Garrard the jeweller. I became involved with throwing the parties for the brand, hired Dita von Teese for her first European performance, went on to do produce Dita’s wedding and fifteen years later the rest, as they say, is history!
How did you know it was the right time to launch your own company and what were the stepping-stones to that point?
It was serendipity. I never really set it up deliberately, there was no business plan. I started working in reaction to demand and I pretty much still am. I will say that being an entrepreneur is something that is instinctive and that you either want your own business or you want the security of a job. I have always loved working for myself so that would be a decisive stepping stone.
You’ve created so many incredible tablescapes – do you have any which stand out for you?

I love the Christmas tablescape that I designed for Emilia Wickstead. It was the perfect mix of feminine chintz and festivity. It was matchimal but also classic and I would totally happily sit at that table again a few years later. The wedding I designed for Krissy O’Neill in Positano is also a favourite. It was the first time I did matching print on print for a wedding and it was from the linens to the hand-painted plates all in blue and white. The tablescapes I love the most are the ones that were the hardest to pull off where everything had to be made from scratch. They become labours of love.

What’s the key to curating the perfect dinner setting?
I think planning and symmetry are key alongside with lighting, to me the perfect dinner setting is dimly lit with candlelight and you are transported momentarily to another place in time.
Do you feel more drawn to the creative or the business side of the brand and how have you grown the team to support this?
I really love both. Art and commerce need to co-exist. I learned early on that no matter how amazing the idea it always needs to make sense as a line item in a budget (That took me longer to figure out than I let on! I am probably more adept at the creative side and I am always drawn to fellow creatives, so I have had in the past predominantly creative team. Moving forward post-pandemic, I realise I need more business support so that is what my focus is from now on. Business support is everything!
Do you have any mentors or guides and how does this help navigate the right path throughout life and your career?
Nikki Tibbles from Wild at Heart is an incredible friend and mentor, who is in the same industry. The late David Collins was my very first mentor. It is such an important thing to have guidance and advice from someone you admire and respect.
How has this year impacted the industry both positively and negatively?
I haven’t had any real life events and I sadly needed to make a number of my team redundant as we had no real event work. Positively it has made me reassess how I work and allowed me to experiment differently with more intimate settings leading to other work in curation, tabletop influencing (yes that’s a thing) and design. I have also been busy on a new venture, during the last lockdown I was made Creative Director of Aquazzura Home so that is a huge positive.
How has social media affected the luxury industry and which platform has been most useful?
Instagram is hugely inspirational for the industry and has been a huge factor in my work. I think for most of us it is the immediate reference for so many things. We look, bookmark, shop. I think honestly Instagram has changed everything.
What should you gift the host when attending a dinner?
A beautiful candle, or I sometimes love to bring a monogram sourdough loaf with the host’s initials from Harrods.
Which Instagram accounts do you follow for inspiration?
@iamlaurajackson @skyemcalpine @fayedreamsalot @retrouviousAs well as a mix of interiors, food and window design accounts to keep me inspired.
Do you have any pre-bedtime rituals?
I usually have a magnesium salt candlelit bath, I light Palo Santo which I bought in bulk in Peru and I go to sleep listening to the Calm app. Matthew McConaughey’s bedtime story always sends me into a deep sleep, that or the sound of rain.
If you were not on your current career path, which other role would you have chosen career-wise?
I always wanted to be a buyer so I would say I would be a homeware buyer or an interior designer.
This is The Party issue, where / how will you be celebrating this season?
I hope to be going to Claridge’s for a sleepover with my girlfriends for my birthday in December. This symbolises, to me, the start of the festive session. For Christmas and NY I hope to be in Mexico, I love spending the festive season barefoot on the sand.
What’s your secret to surviving party season and still looking flawless?
Drinking celery juice and having sessions at The Light Salon and Facegym. I am also a huge infrared sauna fan and go to Glowbar at least twice a week. I feel like all these things fight inflammation which is the enemy of flawless. I do as much of the feel-good as I can.

What is your go-to party outfit?
I love a long vintage dress, accessorised with Alessandra Rich sparkly earrings. Aquazzura platform shoes (Sundance are my go-to for parties) and a fun clutch from Edie parker or Olympia le tan. I love capes and have a selection of vintage ones from one vintage … they help make a great entrance and exit!
What is on your wishlist this festive season?
I have redesigned my kitchen and on my wishlist is a wall of bespoke delft tiles. Honestly, every penny is going into my kitchen -no new clothes, a beautiful La Cornue pale blue range is even better!
December’s – ‘The Party Issue’ – Download Now
The Gift Guide – Download Now 
– For more on luxury lifestyle, news, fashion and beauty follow Emirates Woman on Facebook and Instagram
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