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    Chef Tom Allen on helming Heston Blumenthal’s Michelin-star restaurant Dinner in Dubai

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    Emirates Man

    by Joelle Albeaino
    3 hours ago

    Chef de Cuisine Tom Allen of Michelin-star restaurant, Dinner, by Heston Blumenthal talks to Emirates Man about his culinary journey so far and his current stint in Dubai.
    Can you tell us a bit about your background and how your culinary journey began?
    I was born and raised in Cheltenham, a small town in Gloucestershire, England. In 2001, I began my first full-time role working at Lumiere, a small 30-cover restaurant in Cheltenham as Chef de Partie. Working there at such an impressionable age, I learned the values of hard work and dedication and it was during this period that I met Ashley Palmer-Watts, who was at the time the Head Chef of Heston Blumenthal’s The Fat Duck. In 2005, I made the move to The Fat Duck restaurant working with an incredible team where I developed a passion for the many processes of the prestigious three-Michelin-starred kitchen. I then joined Dinner in 2009 assisting Heston Blumenthal and developing the historical dishes that they would open the restaurant with, working alongside food historians and museum curators to bring Heston’s vision to life. In 2019 I then took on the role of Head Chef – Dinner London.
    What or who has been your biggest culinary inspiration throughout your career?
    Before I started my career, my parents inspired me. My mum was a stay-at-home mum, so we would always cook together in the kitchen and my dad would grow fruit and vegetables in our garden. Cooking at home was a way to bring the family together and is where I formed an emotional connection with food. My main inspiration since being in the culinary world would have to be Heston Blumenthal; he has been my main inspiration. His profound outlook on cooking, along with his approach to food, flavours, and storytelling has always amazed me. I’ve had the opportunity to work directly with Heston for more than 14 years, and this has had a real impact on the way I approach food.

    Could you describe your signature style that sets you apart from other chefs?
    My style as a chef is twofold, there’s my approach to cooking and discovering dishes from the ages and bringing them to the modern pallet, to how I manage and work with my team, boosting morale and garnering camaraderie. At heart, I am a perfectionist, and every intricate detail must be met to the highest of standards – this is across everything I do. That said, my culinary style is forever evolving and that is a testament to how I have been mentored by such an innovative teacher, that is Heston. It starts with sourcing great quality ingredients and having an amazing team to bring the dishes to life. At Dinner, we always tell the story behind each dish to give it authenticity, that point of difference, and reference. That’s why we search for historical links and work with historians, museum curators, and people who are passionate about food history to help bring all those components together, which we can then use when applying our techniques and methodology to provide a genuine story that that we can deliver to our guests.
    What eventually brought you to Dubai?
    Before I came to lead Dinner by Heston Blumenthal in Dubai, I was overseeing Dinner in London. Heston had instilled immense trust in me to carry and drive his concept further, from the development of the dishes to overseeing the entire team. Years of dedication and commitment resulted in the opportunity to come to Dubai, to bring the concept here, and to make the restaurant a success. It was thrilling, and equally inspiring to come to an exciting new market like Dubai, which at the time was receiving global recognition for its culinary landscape.

    Dinner by Heston Blumenthal was awarded a Michelin star – what does this mean to you?
    To receive a star after being open for a very short period of time, we were completely overjoyed at the award and very proud and very honoured to receive the recognition from the MICHELIN Guide. It means a lot to me and the team; our hard work and dedication have been recognized by one of the most prestigious names in the culinary world. It’s given us a major boost to continue pushing our boundaries and raising the bar.
    Running a Michelin-star restaurant requires meticulous attention to detail and maintaining exceptional standards. How do you stay on top of that?
    We uphold Michelin-star standards through meticulous processes, ways of sourcing products, menu creation and service excellence, but the backbone to the success comes down to the team and passion. I’ve always been passionate about harvesting authentic culture and making sure that we are a collaborative force working towards the same goal. I’ve put in place a regular training session, where the team not only tests their skills but encourages them to be creative and experiment in the kitchen. My team must be happy and motivated because, at the end of the day, the level that we work at is hard enough, and so I want people to wake up in the morning after their days off and feel happy and inspired about coming to work.

    In your opinion, what is the hero dish at Dinner by Heston Blumenthal?
    Looking at the menu at Dinner by Heston Blumenthal, we celebrate hero dishes from the ages, so it’s hard to choose one. From our starters, the Meat Fruit is the most iconic, there is a sense of playfulness, and it shows that things aren’t quite like what they seem (something Heston would always say). When you finish your dining experience two desserts stand out the most. You have our Tipsy Cake (c.1858), which historically takes the lead from the arrival of the first pineapples to the English court in 1700. It’s served with slices of roasted pineapple that have been slowly roasted on a spit for up to six hours. How it’s roasted is really interesting, our pineapple rotisserie is driven by our ‘The Dinner Escapement’ (clock), which is a breath-taking installation in the centre of the restaurant, its pully system reaches across the dining room and to the kitchen, to turn the rotisserie. Then we have our showstopper, which was inspired by one of the world’s first innovative chefs, the theatrical table side Liquid Nitrogen Ice Cream Trolly (c.1901). This is inspired by the work of Agnes B Marshall, a 19th century culinary entrepreneur, also known as ‘the Queen of Ices’ for her work in the development and design of ice cream production and storage.
    Finally, what is the future for Chef Tom Allen and Dinner by Heston Blumenthal?
    Despite only being open since earlier this year, we have achieved a great deal of success already and this is just the beginning for us. Our focus right now is building the team, enhancing the experience for our guests, and ensuring that we’re driving Dinner forward as one of the world’s most unique and exciting award-winning restaurants. We look to launching and showcasing many more dishes from history, and to story tell them through the language of taste and flavour.
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    Images: Supplied by Dinner by Heston Blumenthal More

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      Chef Gregoire Berger of Michelin-star restaurant Ossiano talks about his culinary journey

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      Chef Gregoire Berger of Michelin-star restaurant Ossiano talks to Emirates Man about his culinary journey, early success as a chef and his ocean-inspired restaurant in Dubai.
      Did you always want to be Chef? How did it all begin?
      I come from Brittany, which is in the West of France. It’s a beautiful place on the seafront where everything is centred around unique and regional products; Brittany, of course, is most famous for its seafood. Here is where everything started for me as a chef. I spent my younger years cooking with my mother and grandmother in the kitchen, and I quickly became accustomed to quality ingredients. When I was 16 years old, I realised that I wanted to become a chef, and after many years in my mother’s kitchen I wanted to see what it would truly be like working in a restaurant’s kitchen. So, I took on an apprenticeship at La Closerie de Kerdrain, a gourmet restaurant in Auray created by Martine and Fernand Corfmat. Walking into that kitchen was a magical experience for me, that is when I knew that I would never look back.
      Talk us through your culinary background.
      After my apprenticeship, I went on to train under many of the world’s leading culinary talents at several acclaimed Michelin star restaurants in France, to large luxury resorts around the world, including Paul Bocuse, Roger Verge, and the late Gaston Lenotre, as well as Frederic Robert at la Grande Cascade Paris. I also took time to master my craft under Pastry Chef Gilles Marchal and Chef Michael Nave, the right arm of Pierre Gagnaire and head chef of Balzac. My next major career move was when relocated to the Middle East, where I took the reins of Ossiano – the rest is history.

      What brought you to Dubai?
      I’ve always been travelling. I left France when I was 20 and I moved to Florida, USA. While I was waiting to go to Florida and working in a two Michelin starred restaurant in Spain, I met a guy who became one of my mentors. He had an opportunity for me to come to Morocco as a sous chef after I spent two years in the USA. My parents had divorced, and my mother was in Morocco, so I thought it sounded great. I went to Morocco and got married, it was destiny. Afterwards, I came back to Paris to work at La Grande Cascade but decided Paris wasn’t for us, so we moved to Asia. We wanted to move to Singapore. That was my dream at that time because I thought that it was a great place to grow, and I was amazed by the quality of life. But I always heard that it was easier to move to Asia after spending time in an English-speaking environment such as Dubai or London. Dubai was booming at that time. So, I say you know what? Let’s move to Dubai. I found an amazing opportunity where I stayed for a year and then came to Ossiano. But yes, originally, Dubai was just meant to be a bridge to move to Asia.
      What inspires you when creating new dishes or menus?
      Everything inspires me. Architecture, poetry, the aquarium at Ossiano, colours, shapes, textures, music – I love rap music. I compare one of my favourite rap artists, Furax Barbarossa, to a three-Michelin star chef because the more you listen to one of his songs, the more you understand what he is saying and the more you realise how perfectly it is made – there are layers upon layers in his compositions and it’s only after you’ve heard one 50 times that you realise how powerful it is! His music is very personal, and he doesn’t follow any rules; that’s because with real art there are no rules. I’m also really influenced by beauty. I want everything to have a sense of beauty and I always want to recreate that moment that you see something truly beautiful for the very first time.
      How would you describe your culinary style and approach to cooking?
      Storytelling is at the heart of everything I do. The menu at Ossiano reflects the romance of my own life, as chapters of a book. I take experiences and memories from my travels and turn them into unforgettable dining experiences. Throughout my menus and culinary creations, you will see a common theme, which is how I pay homage to the oceans and my travels, I have also always had a lifelong respect for seasonality, terroir, and sea foraging, and this can be seen in many of the dishes that we present to our guests.

      You’re the youngest and only chef in the country to be featured in the top 100 in the Best Chef Awards for five consecutive years. Tell us more.
      It is an incredible honour to receive such an amazing, global accolade, consecutively. Every time we take home an award whether that’s for me as a chef or for Ossiano, it motivates me to push boundaries further and to innovate further.
      You showcase in your dishes some of the best sustainably sourced produce from around the world. How important is this to you?
      Sustainability is a big topic in Dubai, where everybody tries to use local products. Personally, I believe it’s more consciousness through food. For instance, we have this dish using langoustine where we use the full langoustine from the head to the tail and then the plate itself has been recycled and then we tell the story of the landscape, basically the food helps us to create a kind of story for people to realise something relating to sustainability. When we speak about sustainability, everybody would think, OK, let’s take a product that is sustainable, which we do in every course. But it’s also how you can impact people to ensure that they themselves will be sustainable, which has a bigger impact, like a web. We can make sure that people will themselves try to be more sustainable, which has more impact than only being sustainable ourselves. That said, at Ossiano we always use seafood that’s found within 50km of a coastline, this is something that is ingrained in our DNA.
      What is the hero dish at Ossiano?
      It’s hard to choose one hero dish because we are always innovating the concept of Ossiano, where the experience is a tasting menu. The dining experience features nine to eleven waves including the option of wine pairing. Ossiano is about storytelling and so this style of dining experience allows the front of house team the time to spend with the guests so they can guide them through the journey properly.

      What does the future hold for Ossiano?
      What doesn’t the future hold! We have so many exciting ideas and plans that we can’t wait to share. We, of course, will continue to perfect our craft and the overall dining experience, with the goal of achieving more Michelin stars, climbing higher on global lists, and drawing in people to experience dining like never before. One of my main goals is to continue bringing some of the biggest names in the culinary world to Ossiano for collaborations. I love working with other chefs, and we have already seen a packed schedule of culinary names that I really respect. I only ever work with people who share the same passion as me, the same vibe and we have some great partnerships in the pipeline. This year I have had the pleasure of collaborating with five of the world’s most acclaimed chefs, including the globally celebrated chef Esben Holmboe Bang, to one of Copenhagen’s most exciting chefs, Eric Vildgaard of Jordnær, who has two Michelin stars and was on The World’s 50 Best Restaurants List 2022 at No. 38, Joan Roca of three Michelin-starred restaurant, El Celler De Can Roca, Australia’s most celebrated, ethical, seafood chef, Josh Niland. My next and final four-hands of 2023, which has been perfectly planned to end what has been a year filled of culinary highlights, will be with one of Spain’s most influential chefs, Andoni Luis Aduriz of Mugaritz, which has two Michelin stars and inclusion in The World’s 50 Best Restaurants list 2023 at No. 31. Over the years Andoni has built a reputation for curating some of the world’s most iconic dishes including edible stones, glazed garlic, and the Michelin Man.
      For more on how to look smart and live smarter, follow Emirates Man on Facebook and Instagram
      Images: Supplied by Ossiano  More

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      in lifestyle and culture

      Chef Gökhan of Rüya Dubai on the importance of culture in culinary excellence

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      Life

      by Ruman Baig
      2 hours ago

      Nestled within the elegant premises of The St. Regis Dubai, The Palm, Rüya Dubai, stands as a true embodiment of culinary artistry.
      This dining destination has gained renowned acclaim for its innovative Anatolian gastronomy, earning it a recent accolade within the prestigious Michelin Guide’s distinguished list.
      At the helm of this exquisite culinary journey is Gökhan Çökelez, a virtuoso in the realm of gastronomy who orchestrates the creation of exceptional dishes. Hailing from the landscapes of Turkey’s Black Sea region, Gökhan infuses his mastery into a tapestry of flavors from the Middle East and Mediterranean, skillfully weaving together the finest ingredients with an impeccable culinary technique.
      In a detailed conversation with Emirates Woman, the chef talks to us about his career trajectory so far, his focus in the presence and vision for the future.

      What inspired you to become a chef, and how did your culinary journey begin?
      My family has truly been my biggest inspiration. Growing up, our home was a hub of food, culture, and togetherness. I’d be right there beside my family, helping prepare meals and soaking in the joy of sharing delicious food. This upbringing ignited a spark within me to turn my love for cooking into a career. That’s why I decided to enroll in culinary school, to take my passion to a professional level.
      Can you share a memorable experience or dish that had a significant impact on your cooking style?
      One cherished memory that shaped my culinary approach is our family tradition of making Borek on special occasions. Picture this: we’d gather in the garden, and prepare this delicious dish on a flat sheet. The aroma would fill the entire neighbourhood with anticipation. We’d make variations like cheese, meat, and potato, combining flavours that resonate in my heart. This experience instilled in me the art of cooking with passion and soul.
      What techniques or ingredients do you enjoy experimenting with the most in your dishes?
      My technique involves giving classic recipes a contemporary twist. There’s something magical about picking fresh herbs and produce from the farm that sparks my creativity. When I think of ingredients that are my kitchen favourites, it’s always lemon, olive oil, and sea salt—my culinary trio that elevates flavours in every dish.

      How do you approach creating a balanced menu that caters to various tastes and dietary preferences?
      At Rüya, our menu is designed to have a wide variety of signature dishes that range across the 7 regions of Anatolia. From the savoury goodness of traditional meats and kebabs to lighter options like seafood, fresh salads, and plenty of vegetarian dishes, there’s a plate for every palate.
      Could you highlight a regional cuisine or cooking tradition that you find particularly fascinating?
      I’d like to shine a spotlight on the famous Simit bagel, a culinary tradition which originated in my hometown Devrek, Zonguldak. The secret to creating a truly authentic simit is soaking the dough in grape molasses. It then gets coated in yellow sesame and baked for slight sweetness making the perfect simit; crispy outside, and soft inside.
      What’s the most challenging aspect of maintaining consistency and quality in a busy kitchen environment?
      Our kitchen is a global melting pot with team members from 12 different nations. It’s a challenge to keep everyone aligned with the Anatolian cooking artistry. While Anatolian cuisine may be less familiar than French or Italian, we ensure consistency and quality through meticulous training and innovative methods.
      How do you stay updated with the latest food trends and incorporate them into your own culinary creations?
      I love exploring diverse restaurants and sampling the latest trends. Connecting with fellow chefs, sharing insights, and witnessing their culinary stories fuels my creativity. It’s a tight-knit global community that sparks my inspiration.

      Chef Gökhan of Rüya Dubai
      Can you describe a dish that perfectly represents your personal culinary philosophy and style?
      Imagine a dish that embodies simplicity and refinement – prepared with the finest ingredients and impeccable technique. My culinary passion revolves around Middle Eastern and Mediterranean cuisines. It’s all about savouring authentic flavours with a contemporary touch, celebrating the essence of good food.

      Having been raised in Turkey, how do you infuse culinary uniqueness from your country into the restaurant you’re currently heading?

      Anatolian flavours are close to my heart, and I’m thrilled to share them at Rüya Dubai. We’ve gathered inspiration from every corner – whether it’s the fresh seafood from the coast, hearty kebabs from the east, or delicious flatbreads from the north. You can savour Turkey’s rich food culture on your plate.
      What according to you is the USP of the dining experience at Rüya Dubai?
      At Rüya Dubai, our open kitchen invites guests to be part of the culinary symphony. Our menu thrives on the spirit of sharing, allowing you to embark on an Anatolian adventure through an array of signature dishes. And let’s not forget our breathtaking terrace overlooking Palm Jumeirah and the Arabian Sea – a culinary delight paired with mesmerizing views.

      How do you manage to infuse creativity into your dishes while still respecting traditional flavours and techniques?
      It’s like adding a modern twist to a familiar tune. I take the flavours we all know and love from Anatolian cuisine and give them a creative spin. Think of it as paying homage to the classics while sprinkling a bit of my own culinary imagination. The result is a harmony of tradition and innovation that keeps your taste buds intrigued.

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      Images: Supplied  More